Growing Against the Grain
By Alan Hope
Joris Cambie is a hop grower. He insists on this fact half a dozen times in the hours we spend with him: “My father (pictured next to Joris) was a hop farmer, and his father and his father, and for as long as we know about. And on my mother’s side as well. But that’s not so special; this is the main hop-growing area of Belgium here.”
He’s also a local celebrity, an exception to the decline of the hop-growing industry in Belgium, a barley farmer, the widowed father of five children, and the brewer of a few exceptional beers.
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